Tag Archives: pleats

With Kavita Bhartia’s return on the runway, Spring/Summer got a little more beautiful

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Kavita Bhartia for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Kavita Bhartia for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Kavita Bhartia is back on the runway at Wills India Fashion Week with her super classy Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Inspired by Chintz designs, her collection pays ode to the karigars and artisans who work meticulously, far away from the limelight to convert textiles into masterpiece outfits.

Kavita Bhartia for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Kavita Bhartia for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Her clothes define home-grown craftsmanship, contouring layers of her design sensibilities. This collection took dying and printing techniques to a whole new level; pleats, origami folds on skirts, and architectural jhaalis embedded in sequins and zardozi work surfaced vividly.

Kavita Bhartia for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Kavita Bhartia for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Kavita employed lots of khadi, cotton, and georgette and summer laces in her clothes. The choice of colours was equally soothing—ivory, white, and mint green and rose pink— perfect for summer months! Also, sudden explosion of bright colours interplayed with hints of black in some outfits.

Kavita Bhartia for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Kavita Bhartia for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Crochet and thread patterns were incorporated in the collection to highlight voluminous skirts, body-contouring tops, flowing gowns and modern kurtas.

Virtues by Viral, Ashish & Vikrant for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

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Virtues by Viral, Ashish & Vikrant for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Virtues by Viral, Ashish & Vikrant for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Designers Viral, Ashish and Vikrant painted the runway red with their collection titled ‘Virtues’ at the Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015. Filled with vigor and a whole lot of opulence, the collection focused on asymmetrical dresses, jacket kurtas and elaborate cape dresses.

Virtues by Viral, Ashish & Vikrant for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Virtues by Viral, Ashish & Vikrant for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

The designers highlighted anarkali with straight pants. The menswear sported white bandhgala jacket and red dhoti pants. Other designs included Rajasthani shirts, bandhgala kameez and sleeveless kurtas with side pleats.

Virtues by Viral, Ashish & Vikrant for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Virtues by Viral, Ashish & Vikrant for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

The silhouettes were flowy and the cuts were linear. Their outfits imparted a modern twist to traditional wear. The colour palette of white, red, fuchsia, and brown were weaved playfully to cull out interesting looks.

 

Geisha Designs by Paras and Shalini for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

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Geisha Designs by Paras and Shalini for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Geisha Designs by Paras and Shalini for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Designer duo Paras and Shalini, presented an evening wear collection that takes inspiration from the idea of fossilized flowers preserved in time. The silhouettes were diverse—drapes and pleats, and maxis and separates, contrasted with romantic 50s baby doll skirts.

Geisha Designs by Paras and Shalini for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Geisha Designs by Paras and Shalini for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Their choice of colours coupled with breathtaking embellishments and luxurious fabrics, created magic on the runway. Tea-dipped ivories, morning sunshine yellows, apple greens and fossilized blues spoke the loudest against prints of pressed flowers on parchment base.

Geisha Designs by Paras and Shalini for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Geisha Designs by Paras and Shalini for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Play of transparencies and opacities, lace like patterns, botanical floral appliqué work and embroidery took the collection to a whole new level. Fabrics were rich and soft—silky taffetas and heavy jerseys punctuated by intricate laser cuts.

Geisha Designs by Paras and Shalini for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Geisha Designs by Paras and Shalini for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Lastly, accessories gave the whole look, a somewhat gothic feel. Bold earrings, black ribbons, sprayed flower wreaths, ballerina shoes, knots, lace cuffs and halo-like head pieces added to the rather somber mood.

Organic fashion takes centre-stage at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2014

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Anavila with Showsopper Konkona Sen Sharma

Anavila with Showsopper Konkona Sen Sharma

‘Mohenjo Daro’ by Anavila Sindhu Mishra– Anavila Sindhu Mishra’s collection ‘Mohenjo Daro’ took the spectators back to an era of sheer magnificence at the fashion week. She brought back the various strands of life from a beautiful bygone time. Taking direction from various objects found at the excavation such as the culture, regional artifacts and the art remains, Anavila painted a beautiful visual picture for the collection. She was also inspired by her muse Konkona Sen Sharma, who portrayed this era gracefully.

Anavila

Anavila

The major highlight of this compilation was the handiwork of treatments done on hand-woven textiles. The fabrics used were linen, cotton and silk, which were dominant at that time. Stitching techniques like extra weft weaving, block printing and ikat gave prominence to the Indus motifs. Over-dyeing and printing had also been used to create an aged, rustic look. Ajrak printing, featured at Mohenjo Daro, was an important aspect of the collection. The becoming creations had gorgeous colours like mehendi green, gold metallic sheens, off white, navy blues and rust reds.

Anavila

Anavila

Other garments that stood out were the cutout sari with the rust/red blouse and garment detailing, which included line texturing in the form of embroidery and elephant prints along with a tan-belted sari that really brought out the visual appeal of the textile. To add to the ethnicity of the entire collection the accessories were made of beaten metal, terracotta and leather.

Purvi Doshi with Showstopper Sonal Chauhan

Purvi Doshi with Showstopper Sonal Chauhan

‘Chavi’ By Purvi Doshi- Purvi Joshi showcased her creative side at the fashion week by bringing in harmony between two cultures for her collection ‘Chavi’. Inspiration was drawn from the ever-famous African Aztec prints, which are trendy all over the world. Purvi converted these prints to turn them into a desi offering of glamorous fusion wear. This change from international to hometown material was created with brilliant merging of the prints into mirror embroidery with subtlety of Kutch and Gujarat beaming through.

Purvi Doshi

Purvi Doshi

The garments looked melodious in sound hues of saffron, blue, chili red, green and white that effortlessly flowed into the silhouettes. The handwork on the garments was the reflection of a dying art of mirror work by the rural crafts-people who were struggling to keep this tradition afloat.

Purvi Doshi

Purvi Doshi

This collection had maxis, saris paired with short kurtas along with flared blouses, tie and dye skirts as well as long kurtas with flared pants. This collection had variety of detailing like pleats, layering, gather and keyholes. It was colourful and eclectic just like its mirror work. Other enchanting ensembles were the anarkalis that were rich in blue and had colourful edging details. Rajasthani bangles were also a major statement making accessory style that was adopted to complete the collection. Sonal Chauhan was the showstopper for her collection.

Sashikant Naidu and Showstopper Shreya Saran

Sashikant Naidu and Showstopper Shreya Saran

‘Separe’ by Sashikant Naidu– Sashikant Naidu brought the limelight onto 21st century women with his collection ‘Separe’, which is French for ‘Separates’ at the fashion week. The underlying idea was to create separate pieces that would look divine with already possessed items in every lady’s wardrobe.

Sashikant Naidu

Sashikant Naidu

A wide range of dresses, jackets, skirts, scarves, stoles to dupattas, lehengas, saris and blouses was the essence of the collection. The brilliance of a collection such as this would only stand out by using silks, Dupion, fletcher, ikat and khadi along with crepes. The look commenced with light, layered and textured outfits, all made in khadi with embellishments such as handmade accessories and tribal jewellery to bring out the rawness of idea.

Sashikant Naidu

Sashikant Naidu

Hues like metallic grey, flower prints, lime green, emerald green and rust reds had exquisite detailing like pom-poms and pleats. Majority of the colours of this compilation were in shades of red, green and blue dawned on silhouettes like body-fitted maxi dress, sleeveless high low cardigan, sequined edged kurtas and asymmetrical handkerchief maxi skirts. Another ensemble that stood out was the midi dress, which was layered with box pleats and had long flared sleeves. A technique of hand painting was used with only eco-friendly paints and was contemporary for the style and silhouettes of the collection. Adding just a hint of shimmer in the embroidery, Sashikant ensured that the artisans incorporated the temples of South India and embodied nature in the designs. Bollywood star Shriya Saran was in a polished emerald green blouse with a red sari along with exaggerated nose jewellery, which was a perfect ending to the radiant collection.

Designers Nitin Chawla, Asa Kazingmei and Ujjawal Dubey presented diverse collections at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2014

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Theorem by Nitin Chawla

Theorem by Nitin Chawla

‘Richard’s Diary’ by Nitin Chawla – A visually stunning and highly imaginative story of a man who worked at a railroad union in Pennsylvania in the 1800’s came to life with Nitin Chawla’s collection ‘Richard’s Diary’ at the Jabong Stage during the fashion week. The collection for his label ‘Theorem’ comprised of silhouettes for both men and women, focusing on the style and cuts from that era along with practicality and personal style of the 21st century.

Theorem by Nitin Chawla

Theorem by Nitin Chawla

Dresses, coats, trousers, jackets, blazers, jumpsuits, shirts and separates took to the ramp in elegant, durable and heavy fabrics like tweed and leather. To add a hint of modern edge, the designer used digitally printed and brushed fabrics with stud detailing along with checks and pockets for a balanced appeal. Patchwork and layers further worked their magic on each piece in shades of dark blue, chocolate and red.

Asa Kazingmei

Asa Kazingmei

‘Changvei’ by Asa Kazingmei– Known for his raw and edgy take on fashion, Asa revealed a new collection inspired by the shield used by Naga warriors when at war. The silhouettes were almost armour-like, form fitting at the top so as to ‘protect’ one’s body. Exaggerated necklines and shoulders structured to mirror ‘self-expression through restriction’, was a concept derived from the boundaries and strife witnessed by the Naga warriors.

Asa Kazingmei

Asa Kazingmei

To balance out the range, feminine, free-flowing skirts, corsets and gowns, reflected the beauty and elegance even in tragedy while the outfits tailored for men included jackets, pants and shirts with controlled forms. The designer used embellishments and layers along with pleats, metallic studs, chains, rivets, leather piping and zippers to further strengthen the outfits for an ‘appliqués for weapons’ train of thought.

Antar-Agni by Ujjawal Dubey

Antar-Agni by Ujjawal Dubey

‘The Otherside’ by Ujjawal Dubey’s – His collection ‘The Otherside’ from his label ‘Antar-Agni’ showcased a wide spectrum of emotions – raw and unaltered by using silhouettes for a canvas. Using fabrics such as linens, heavy and hand-woven cottons, cotton jacquards and chambrays, the designer made sure his ‘body art’ was deliciously decadent and functionally fashionable.

Antar-Agni by Ujjawal Dubey

Antar-Agni by Ujjawal Dubey

Kurtas, dresses, trousers, coats, crop tops, tunics, jackets, blazers and kaftans made their way onto the runway in easy-to-wear shades of smoky grey, tin, brown, burnt beige, night blue and charcoal black. An outfit which stood out within the collection was an elegant cloud grey suit with double pockets paired with dhoti pants that gave an Indo-chic vibe. The collection, which was aimed at both men and women incorporated leather, piping, gathers and textured detailing that added to the allure of the collection, giving it an edgy and intriguing Indo-traditional appeal.