The Surrealistic Designer

Chhaya Mehrotra

There is something very strikingly beautiful about Chhaya Mehrotra’s simplicity in designs. Modern silhouettes, subtle color palette and almost-bewildered cuts make her clothes perfect for Indian women. She shares a slice of her beautiful journey with The Lifestyle Potpourri…

How do you start your day?

The first thing I do is switch off the alarm and get that extra 15 minutes of sleep! After waking up, I glance through the newspaper with a morning cuppa of green tea and spend some time with the kids before we finish breakfast and pack for the day at factory. Breakfast is the time where, me and my husband plan out the entire day.

What shaped your outlook as a designer during your formative days?

My origins are rooted in Banaras and the variety of exposure I had across all platforms in the domestic textile industry right after NIFT molded my creative realm as a designer—from hand block printing to digital printing, hand embroidery to computerized embroidery, and designing for ethnic wedding wear to designing furnishing fabrics for Heimtextil, or high-end fashion fabrics for Texworld Paris; I knew my biggest strength lies in versatility. I take my education and experiences as the alphabet…what I write with it depends on my mood and requirement!

Chhaya Mehrotra

What inspires you to create newer designs?

Inspiration could be from almost anything. It could be a faint memory of childhood or a poem that I wrote. Sometimes it’s a place or a craft, and sometimes it could be a conversation with a kid or a friend. But inspiration isn’t enough to keep you going; it’s the instant mood lift you get when you see a sketch perfectly turned out into a garment—that excites me to create newer designs more than anything else.

Tell us an anecdote that has been consequential in your journey as a designer…

We had shifted to Noida from Banaras mainly because of family business. I just started with three tailors for my label and did exhibitions often; I was doing decent business. However, one day a long-lost family friend walks into our factory for some work and instead looks at my collection and threw a barrage of questions at me—“Why don’t you participate in fashion weeks?” and etc… On that guest’s insistence we applied and got the required membership; this was 2011. Looking at how our label is positioned now, you bet this anecdote was consequential!

Chhaya Mehrotra

Who is your favourite designer and why?

How can you pick one when it’s a sea of stunning work out there!
Amongst international designers I like Stella McCartney and Ted Baker’s creations—their sense of colour palette is very intense. Amongst Indian designers, A&T and Rajesh Pratap Singh are my favorites for their perfect approach to minimalism; Ritu Kumar inspires me for her timeless appeal to every piece of clothing; whereas Sabyasachi has touched my heart with the grandeur of detailing in his work; I also admire Rahul Mishra for the magic he created with wool, and Rajdeep Ranawat for the perfection he can bring to any cloth with a riot of colours. Lastly, I am very fond of Raw Mango and Anavila because their simple work can exude a whole lot of beauty!

Five must-haves in a woman’s wardrobe…

A handloom saree, crisp white shirt, pair of blue denims, nice perfume and an all-purpose shift dress

Blurring Fashion Borders

Meher and Riddhima

Meher and Riddhima, an evening-wear brand launched in 2002 caters to fashion that reflects delicately influenced rich heritage and tradition of a region. They produce gorgeous evening gowns, cocktail dresses, formal jumpsuits, accessories and children’s wear. Based out of Dubai, the label also has offices in New York and India. This venture is a creative alliance between Meher Mirchandani and Riddhima Whabi.

Meher and Riddhima

The designer duo’s design philosophy revolves around combining contemporary shapes with traditional influences. It is an evening wear brand with couture attention to detail. The brand has a balance of western sensibilities with eastern influences in the design. The inspiration for the collections is derived from art, architecture, music, travel, interiors and prominent women in history.

Meher and Riddhima

Define your label and forecast some upcoming trends…

Our label is made to make the wearer feel special, happy and beautiful. For the upcoming season, we would recommend fashionistas to look out for bright floral prints, crop tops, flowy skirts and pop-colored dresses.

Meher and Riddhima

Who has been your role model during your formative years and why?

I would say my mother as she is perfect in everything she does; she is a successful entrepreneur, loving mom and dedicated wife and great human being. She inspired me to express my fashion sensibilities through my designs and reach out to many…

Meher and Riddhima

How different is Indian fashion industry in comparison to its western counterparts?

Indian fashion industry focuses more on ethnic Indian wear, which again reflects a lot of Indian influences on fabrics, colors and embellishments; whereas, the western industry is all about minimalistic styling and contemporary, luxe fabrics.

Voiix – Redefining Indian Couture

Voiix by Saiba and Maneet

Voiix, a woman’s clothing label by Saiba and Maneet is bending genres and redefining the stereotypes of Indian dressing sensibilities. Their brand aesthetics lies in the fact that traditional Indian clothing has countless facets to it; the designer duo are thriving to create awareness in the society through their beautiful outfits that speak volumes about being bold and expressive through casting remarkable fashion statements. We speak to Saiba about her beloved label:

Voiix by Saiba and Maneet

What does Voiix mean?

Voiix means voice in French. We have been in the fashion industry for seven years now; earlier we were retailing under a different brand name. However, we have re-launched our label, wherein themed collection will be showcased on a regular basis interpreting the core mantra of Indian couture. Our clothes reflect tastes of contemporary, independent Indian women; be it the colour palette or the luxurious fabrics, cuts and silhouettes, or perhaps the almost delicious embroidery work and flowy drapes, our collection talks about feminism in the most au courant ways. Nonetheless, even feminism has a slight touches of masculinity to it; women today are no more delicate damsels, and neither do they like to dress up in such manner—panel dressing, sharp cuts and structured silhouettes are today’s go-to options.

Voiix by Saiba and Maneet

Tell us about one fashion trend that you absolutely love…

Monochrome is huge this season; it works with two extreme colours- black and white. However, we have tried being a little experimental here and worked on a collection that has reds and whites, instead of the regular colour shade. Monochrome trend depicts illuminati; it casts a very powerful fashion statement; we have just tried to give this trend a refreshing makeover.

Voiix by Saiba and Maneet

What colour will be ruling the fashion dais this summer?

It has to be white. White capes and summer jackets will be the ruling fashion element this summer. Also, white saris with subtle pops of colour, and white crop tops paired with high-waisted palazzos will be the trending look for the coming months. In short, white will be beautifully blended in Indo-fusion ensembles with touch of western influences. As far as fabrics are concerned, jersey, khadi, raw silk and other Indian handlooms will do the rounds.

Voiix by Saiba and Maneet

What are you working on next?

We are focusing on our winter collection wherein Indian weaves will be the pivotal factor. We have tied up with local weavers of Banaras for developing our very own weaves, brocades and more… The collection will flaunt gorgeous paisleys with baroque touch, lots of gold and red interplay on bridal canvasses and of course oxblood red and jade will be surfacing on many outfits.

Amrit Kaur’s Fascination with Retro

Amrit Kaur’s Collection

Speaking of retro trends of the season…

This season is all about return of the retro in modern style. Swooping bellbottoms, tightly-fit tops, and psychedelic prints—everywhere we look, the 1970s style is back in heavy rotation with touches of contemporary style. For instance, flared pants are given a modern look by teaming it up with crisp white shirts or a crop tops; also, take note of oversized sunglasses, polka-dotted hair accessories, bright floral prints and more.

Tale of fabrics, color palette, prints and silhouettes…

For this summer, I have played with cotton silk, chiffon, chanderi and blend of cotton and raw silk. The fabrics portray a palette of bright colours and prints. With vibrant pop colours such as yellow, orange, green, purple, blue and red taking the center stage, I have played very strategically with bold prints and floral prints to make my garments look more fun and lively. I used floral-roses to cast hints of feminineness, and tropical prints, wild flowers along with long leafs with subtle colors and geometric prints to recall disco elements in crop tops, blouses, sheer capes, mid-cuff skirts, pencil-cut skirts, short dress and pantsuits for woman.

Amrit Kaur’s Collection

What went behind making of your latest collection?

Love of retro and love of summer went behind conceptualizing this collection. Movies like American hustle and TV shows like the 70’s show got me really inspired.

Tell us about your fascination with the good-old 70s fashion…

70’s fashion is a statement to be bold, fun and joy. Pop colors, bold prints, high-waisted flared trousers, symmetry and hints of disco gold on jumpsuits, capes, and dresses often bring out the hippie in you. I am in love with this unpretentious and fearless style statement. Rugged hairdos, statement headgears, Bohemian scarfs, oversized hats and big sunnies always arrest my attention.

Amrit Kaur’s Collection

The muse…

The whole look and energy of 70’s era inspired me; the era reminds me of times that were hassle-free, fun, optimistic and unpretentious in terms of fashion. The pop culture, disco trends and hippies really stood out amidst two oil crisis movements, the end of the Vietnam War and suffering economy. The 70’s were a time of beauty and freedom, when femininity was pushed forward. Bold prints and vibrant colors has always been my favorite but 70’s also give us bold flashy gold look—think of big loops, jewelry and belts.

Future plans?

Right now I am working on my new collection for autumn/winter 2015-16 in which I am taking further my retro theme in winter style making more of coats, jackets and sheer dresses. Rest all is a surprise (she smiles).

The Season of Non-specifics – Shruti Sancheti

Shruti Sancheti’s collection

Tell us about en vogue summer trends…

This summer the focus is on non-season specifics, norm core, Bohemian-inspired, and retro looks. The look is minimalistic yet trendy, tribal yet au courant and 1970’s with a contemporary twist. Midis, jumpsuits, long skirts, spliced skirts, maxis, crop tops, throws and jackets in summer fabrics like linen, khadi, cotton, summer silk ,neoprene are popular. Detailing like zippers, pockets, fringes along with tribal embroidery, tie n dye, and ombre dyeing are extremely popular. Accessories like metallic sunglasses, interesting neckpieces, belts, and sneakers and brogues are trending this summer.

What fabrics, colour palette, prints and silhouettes in Indian couture will do the rounds this season?

Fabrics which allow you to breathe like linen, organic cotton, summer silkier silk and all natural fabrics will be popular to beat the sultry balmy weather. Colours from pretty pastels like blush, custard, peach, mint green, to warm hues like marsala, olive, indigo, and watermelon red all will be popular. Block print, tie n dye, screen print, and digital prints will be extremely popular too; lastly, silhouettes like wide-legged pants, spliced skirts, long flowy skirts, maxis, midis and jumpsuits will be trending high.

Shruti Sancheti’s collection

What went behind making of your latest collection?

My collection ‘Nomadistaan’ is about the global woman living out of suitcases but feels trapped in urban confines of the modern world. Her soul is nomadic but her outlook is totally global; she wants to flaunt a bit of her legacy and culture down her sleeves. The styling of the collection is contemporary but the look is Bohemian.

Tell us about a usual day in your life…

I start the day with going to the gym to undo the damages of the previous day. Then it is working till 2pm after which I have lunch and again at about 3.30 pm its work time till 6.30 pm. After that my evenings are devoted to my family and friends. However, I live out of suitcases so this stability is always a temporary phenomenon and when I travel, which is very often, routine takes a back seat.

Shruti Sancheti’s collection

What would Shruti Sancheti’s woman look like?

My woman is an old-school one trapped in this au courant world. She believes in the unsurpassed legacy of weaves, textiles and crafts and wears timeless clothes, which have understated luxury and restrained opulence. She is astute, ferociously proud of her heritage and yet expresses her femininity and elegance through her distinct yet restrained dressing.

What inspired you to make this collection?

My love for travel, love for rich crafts, love for colours and most of all love for Bohemian and tribal fashion…

Dainty yet Bold – Jyoti Sachdev Iyer

Jyoti Sachdev Iyer’s collection

Jyoti Sachdev Iyer’s designs exude fantasy, sophistication and unadulterated femininity for the woman of today. Her dainty yet bold designs define today’s woman. She is a superwoman, who looks after her kids, shapes her career, celebrates life and spreads joy in every life that she touches.

Jyoti Sachdev Iyer’s collection

The designer has been in the industry for about 15 years now. Her stores are at Delhi, Bangalore, Chennai, Mumbai and many other cities in India. She has the experience of working with international brands like Fendi, Kenzo and La-Perla. Her designs are globally inspired yet rooted to Indian ethnicity; it is a combination that truly compliments today’s woman.

Jyoti Sachdev Iyer’s collection

Her colour palette is diverse and her cuts and silhouettes have contemporary notes, reflecting world-wide inspirations. She has clothes for all age-groups, be it you or your mother, you are sure to find your match at her stores.

Global Patterns on Ethnic Fabrics

Neha Agarwal

Known for her vibrant and gutsy designs, Neha Agarwal is back with another inspiring collection— ‘From Russia, with Love’ that narrates a tale of two cultures. Russian-inspired silhouettes and motifs fused with Indian fabrics and techniques are the crux of Neha’s work this year. Usage of intricate hand-embroidered appliqués on georgette, ahimsa, dupion, pure mal, tussar and pattu silk on Russian-inspired artwork makes this array of designs one-of-a-kind.

Neha Agarwal

The collection reminisce form-fitting fashion of early 1900s, Russia. Eye-catching dresses and bamboo denim jackets with cape collars, adorned with cross-stitch detailing and floral embroidery; circular dresses with hand block printed motifs and denim crop tops with printed Russian dolls and flared jumpsuits in pure silk with a denim bodice and embroidered scalloped sleeves, complete this resplendent collection.

Neha Agarwal

Overall, it is an innovative fusion of global patterns into ethnic fabrics and techniques that awaits to take the fashion orb by storm.

Marsala collection by Lalit Dalmia

Marsala collection by Lalit Dalmia

Lalit Dalmia, the face behind the brand of the same name is a self-taught talent from Hisar who has left the world awestruck with his powerful and unique design vision. He has shown the world how his elegant designs for women can take luxury to a whole new level. He doesn’t consider himself as a designer but a creator, who just doesn’t want to make pretty clothes; instead, through his creations he wants to make every woman feel like an urban goddess.

Marsala collection by Lalit Dalmia

His inspirations are endless and can be drawn from anything & everything. His label is synonymous with opulence, contemporary Indian and Indo-Western wear. His intention has been to create glamourous ensembles with traditional textures, embroideries, and craftsmanship juxtaposed with modern designs. He experiments around unusual fabrics and textures to create masterpieces, which takes us back to the Victorian and Mughal period.

Marsala collection by Lalit Dalmia

To sum it all in a nutshell, Lalit attributes his collections as ‘clothes with international styling and Indian soul’. If you are looking for enchanting and sophisticated fusion of distinctive traditional and modern designs with the stroke of muted classy and reserved attitude, you know where to go now! The designer uses a colour palette, which makes one feel nostalgic about our intricate and ancient eras in history.

Kavita Bhartia in retrospection @ 25

Kavita Bhartia’s Autumn/Winter 2015

Since the launch of her label in 1989, Kavita Bhartia retrospect’s 25 years of her journey in the Indian Fashion industry and her multi-designer store Ogaan, through her Autumn/Winter 2015 collection essentially inspired by the 18^th century Tapestries from the Victoria and Albert Museum. Encompassing her chic and minimalistic silhouettes, she retains her signature style for the globetrotting woman.

Kavita Bhartia’s Autumn/Winter 2015

The mood board comprises of tapestries and damasks from the Victoria and Albert Museum, and 18^th century inspired European floral patterns. Her silhouettes are sculpted—full circle voluminous pleated skirts with worked-on jackets, textured yarn crop tops, and draped skirts and dresses.

Kavita Bhartia’s Autumn/Winter 2015

The fabrics flaunt exclusively fashionable weaves propagating a novelty of untwisted threads of silk into sheer styles, exclusive prints bestowing an explicit look. And the textiles are all about sheer looks in silk, organza and tulle, with hints of printed scuba fabric, and silk crepe.

Kavita Bhartia’s Autumn/Winter 2015

The detailing bit celebrates indigenous Indian hand techniques blended in a contemporised styling in resham dori, florals, tapestry prints and paisleys using shaded tones. Lastly, the colour palette comprises of rouge pink, deep navy, ivory, pale blues and blacks, accented with mustard, pale green and electric blue.

The Summer Bride By Anita Dongre

The Summer Bride By Anita Dongre

As we stride into a resplendent summer, Anita Dongre brings to life yet another fairy-tale through her latest collection, ‘The Summer Bride’. The collection reminisces the quintessential moment of the big day in the life of the modern Anita Dongre bride, beautifully portrayed by her muse and the enthralling ‘Jaipur Bride’ – Nayantara.

The Summer Bride By Anita Dongre

The Rajasthan-inspired collection takes us through a series of visual affairs that emblazon Nayantara’s journey of the bride she aspires to be. It takes us down the sartorial memory lane to the instant that led Nayantara to realize that she had found her frameable moment of radiant love, the portrait of her happily ever after. It wasn’t just a mere tryst of destiny, but a striking black and white portrait of her strong grandmother that stayed with Nayantara for decades. A vision she treasured through her growing up years.

The Summer Bride By Anita Dongre

Renowned for her splendid couture designs teeming with romantic details, each Anita Dongre ensemble is an ode to femininity, a celebration of dreams. Dreams in hues of summer comprising of nude, blush and dusky shades that work up to navy blues and crimson for a finale of more dainty ruffles, crystals and embroidered gowns. Their sparkle is magical, the colours melt together, and the handcrafted threads of love are superimposed in an incredible impression of lightness. The collection explores elements of its symbolic significance and design creation, as the final flourish of bridal resplendence and delicate elegance.