The Surrealistic Designer

Chhaya Mehrotra

There is something very strikingly beautiful about Chhaya Mehrotra’s simplicity in designs. Modern silhouettes, subtle color palette and almost-bewildered cuts make her clothes perfect for Indian women. She shares a slice of her beautiful journey with The Lifestyle Potpourri…

How do you start your day?

The first thing I do is switch off the alarm and get that extra 15 minutes of sleep! After waking up, I glance through the newspaper with a morning cuppa of green tea and spend some time with the kids before we finish breakfast and pack for the day at factory. Breakfast is the time where, me and my husband plan out the entire day.

What shaped your outlook as a designer during your formative days?

My origins are rooted in Banaras and the variety of exposure I had across all platforms in the domestic textile industry right after NIFT molded my creative realm as a designer—from hand block printing to digital printing, hand embroidery to computerized embroidery, and designing for ethnic wedding wear to designing furnishing fabrics for Heimtextil, or high-end fashion fabrics for Texworld Paris; I knew my biggest strength lies in versatility. I take my education and experiences as the alphabet…what I write with it depends on my mood and requirement!

Chhaya Mehrotra

What inspires you to create newer designs?

Inspiration could be from almost anything. It could be a faint memory of childhood or a poem that I wrote. Sometimes it’s a place or a craft, and sometimes it could be a conversation with a kid or a friend. But inspiration isn’t enough to keep you going; it’s the instant mood lift you get when you see a sketch perfectly turned out into a garment—that excites me to create newer designs more than anything else.

Tell us an anecdote that has been consequential in your journey as a designer…

We had shifted to Noida from Banaras mainly because of family business. I just started with three tailors for my label and did exhibitions often; I was doing decent business. However, one day a long-lost family friend walks into our factory for some work and instead looks at my collection and threw a barrage of questions at me—“Why don’t you participate in fashion weeks?” and etc… On that guest’s insistence we applied and got the required membership; this was 2011. Looking at how our label is positioned now, you bet this anecdote was consequential!

Chhaya Mehrotra

Who is your favourite designer and why?

How can you pick one when it’s a sea of stunning work out there!
Amongst international designers I like Stella McCartney and Ted Baker’s creations—their sense of colour palette is very intense. Amongst Indian designers, A&T and Rajesh Pratap Singh are my favorites for their perfect approach to minimalism; Ritu Kumar inspires me for her timeless appeal to every piece of clothing; whereas Sabyasachi has touched my heart with the grandeur of detailing in his work; I also admire Rahul Mishra for the magic he created with wool, and Rajdeep Ranawat for the perfection he can bring to any cloth with a riot of colours. Lastly, I am very fond of Raw Mango and Anavila because their simple work can exude a whole lot of beauty!

Five must-haves in a woman’s wardrobe…

A handloom saree, crisp white shirt, pair of blue denims, nice perfume and an all-purpose shift dress

Royal & rooted – by Aditi Maheshwari

Rohit Bal

Rohit Bal, one of the most sought after fashion designers, popularly known as the ‘master of fabric and fantasy’, gets candid and talks about the current fashion industry and his journey as a designer

What is your design philosophy?

For me, the most important word is elegance. I also give importance to certain styles that are understated, craft based and extremely Indian. Nothing that I do has any western influences. Everything I do has a very strong soul of India; so my design philosophy says that I am an Indian and I like making Indian designs; also, all my designs are hand crafted and at the end of the day, the soul of India should be represented in my collections.

What new techniques and materials are you using?

We are using the opposite of new techniques. We are focusing on age old techniques—those that are long forgotten. We are reviving techniques that used to be an important part of Indian subcontinent. So instead of doing something new, I am using techniques that were used many hundreds of years ago. I am trying to bring back what is lost to India.

Rohit Bal’s bridal collection for Wills India Fashion Week SS’15

What does fashion mean to you?

Fashion for me is a very integral part of lifestyle. Fashion doesn’t mean wearing fancy clothes. It’s about the way you live, your lifestyle, your home, the food you eat, the car you drive, the life you lead; it’s really about your entire life. Fashion is in fact, a necessary evil.

During your formative years, who has been your muse?

When I started out as a fashion designer, I was influenced greatly by a very dear friend, Rohit Khosla. He was my inspiration and my muse.

Most fashion designers are now diversifying into other areas besides fashion. What’s your take on this and how important is it to diversify for creative expression as well as to scale up the business?

I might have been amongst the first ones to have done that. The reason why you do this is because you want your creativity to be experimented and expressed in other mediums rather than what you normally do with fashion. A creative person absolutely must do as many creative things as possible; whether it is designing homes, cars, product designs, etc. A designer should give his creativity another platform. It is a natural progression and extremely important.

Rohit Bal’s bridal collection for Wills India Fashion Week SS’15

What is the future of couture in India?

I think the future of fashion in India is couture and nothing else. In India there are enough international brands. But what we designers do is very up market and occasion wear; whether it is weddings or parties. So, I think couture has a great potential in India.

What was your first design? Do you have any interesting anecdotes in the making of your first piece?

The first design I ever did was for men. The first person who wore those was my friend, Rohit Khosla. The first thing I ever made was a gold tissue bandhgala for men. At that time, such designs were very contemporary and avant-garde.

Way back when you were a student, what inspired you? How did you decide upon this career?

Some very fashionable people used to come visit my college when I was a student. I used to observe some amazing style icons, see their beautiful clothes and get inspired by the likes of them.

Rohit Bal at the grand finale show for Wills India Fashion Week SS’15

How does the business of fashion look like today?

Encouraging. The industry is also getting a little more organised. Earlier this entire industry was very haphazard and not very focused. But now, fashion has become a very important industry.

P.S- Aditi Maheshwari, the author of this story is an avid lifestyle writer who runs a popular decor blog www.pobox9.in

Jeniffer Lawrence as Katniss Everdeen in ‘The Hunger Games: Mockingjay – Part 1’

Jeniffer Lawrence as Katniss Everdeen in the Hunger Games: Mockingjay – Part 1

It’s quite fascinating to watch you as Katniss, she is complex & emotional; how much you approach her & how much do you feel you have taken propriety of her in the film?

Katniss kind of grew along with this character; it’s an interesting thing to play the same character throughout the year and that feeling is constantly growing and changing along with you. I mean we are very different, but I take it from the books, obviously.

Katniss reacts so spontaneously. How do you approach that?

Well Katniss never really wanted to be a hero, she never really wanted to be a Mockingjay, and in the beginning of this movie they tried to kind of create this symbol for people and try to make her into this manufactured leader. They find that she is much powerful when they just leave her alone and let her be herself because she is very complex and very heroic; she is not a fake.

We will now see Katniss in District 13, how does your character react? Did you have any challenges as an actor?

As an actor, the challenge was having Katniss wake up in a brand new environment, where she has to rebuild herself from nothing. Katniss has not only left behind her old life as a District 12 victor, she has entered a world unlike any other. She has to get used to a new way of life in District 13. Everything is deeply unfamiliar and it’s all underground, so she can’t even go outside or hunt.

Julianne Moore plays District 13’s steely leader as the enigmatic Alma Coin. How was it working with her?

When I heard Julianne was going to play Coin, it was the most exciting, unbelievable news in the world. I think Julianne is one of the greatest actresses of all time. She was even more impressive in person. She is such a sweet family woman and also hilarious. Working with her was a dream come true.

Jeniffer Lawrence as Katniss Everdeen in The Hunger Games: Mockingjay – Part 1

Tell us the about the relationship between Katniss & Alma Coin in the movie…

Well, their relationship is complicated. They share similar ideals, but with all she’s been through, Katniss feels she cannot fully trust Coin. President Coin can see how important Katniss is to leading this rebellion, but she also doesn’t believe Katniss can actually do it. She’s still suffering from post-traumatic stress and President Coin is skeptical that using Katniss is something that she can actually control.

How is your equation with Gale now in the movie?

Katniss and Gale have such a rich history. There are so many complexities to it because before Katniss went into the Games, Gale was the only person who really understood her. Following the games, she and Peeta had this experience together that no one else, including Gale, could ever understand. She and Gale are in a very interesting place and it was nice to explore more of that.

Has there been an incredible bonding experience for all the actors especially for you, Liam and Josh?

Absolutely, I mean Josh, Liam are genuinely my best friends in the world and they are like my family. I wouldn’t have been able to go through this entire ordeal without them and I am sure they would feel the same for me.

So Francis Lawrence is back in this film. How was it working with him this time around?

Amazing, I feel self-conscious that I can’t actually say everything that is so amazing about Francis because I can’t really put it in words. He’s so unbelievably talented. He’s made these movies, it surpasses any sort of expectations anybody could have. He’s the absolute perfect person to make these movies. But he’s also the nicest, warmest man in this world. He’s calm and he creates an amazing atmosphere on set and he’s just absolutely wonderful.

Kiran Uttam Ghosh’s designs are beyond pragmatic prêt. With an unconventional urge to create a sense of balance between traditional and modernist quintessence, she constantly thrives to take perfection to newer bounds

Autumn/Winter ’14

Kolkata-based designer, Kiran Uttam Ghosh confronts the very notion of categorization. Being present in eight countries, Ghosh’s designs are understated with silhouettes and distinctive textures that snub to be allied by any particular school of fashion philosophy. Her work emphasises on the metaphysics of detailing, which was imparted to her by her mentor, Jasper Conran. Today, her couture line epitomizes an enduring classic appeal, wherein she casts newer dimensions to all her clothes.

Tell us about your Autumn/Winter’14 collection…

My Autumn/Winter collection is inspired by Paisleys—Paisleys as embroidered cut-work necks, textures, prints and neck pieces. One can see layered silhouettes that are long and lean, often with shorter fronts and long backs; also, metallic and bling neck pieces have made a mark. The key pieces to look out for are sheer pants with embroidered hem details and cut work armholes. This collection is about separates—to connect with varied generations and to wear on different occasions. For example, a gold pleated wrap jacket can be worn over a sari or over shorts, paired with a tee or with a choli.

Autumn/Winter ’14

What colours and prints will be in vogue this season?

Metallics, like, gold, bronze and silver will work well adding drama and support to colours like rich red, ivory, deep purple, teal and emerald. As far as prints are concerned, enlarged paisley prints will rule the season.

What textiles and silhouettes will be creating buzz in the fashion circuit?

Silhouettes that are shorter on the front with longer backs will be trending. Furthermore, vertical paneled pieces with sheer and opaque offsetting each other will be in vogue. As for textiles, I feel pressed pleats in gold, bronze and silver will be hot favourite. Pleats in short colours of teal, deep purple and gold will have a fashion moment too!

What according to you are the topmost fashion trends this year?

I’m not a trends person at all. I follow what I feel like wearing. I like my clothes to be passed on as heirloom pieces. Nothing makes me happier than a mother telling me how her daughter wore her clothes on her wedding day. Having said that, I think sheer pyjamas with bright traditional embroidered hemlines are a great way to present traditional workmanship with a global silhouette. These can easily be worn with a tee, a shirt or a gherdaar—from evening wear to a mehendi ceremony or a wedding reception.

Autumn/Winter ’14

What are your views on deconstructive silhouettes and unisexual fashion?

Androgyny is my forte. There is nothing like a man’s white shirt on a woman’s petite figure. I love borrowing from a man’s wardrobe. At the same time I love pastels, saris, kurtas and sheers. Being a woman in fashion today is amazing. We can have the best of both worlds.

What is your fashion mantra?

Keeping it simple is my mantra. I often see an ensemble and feel I can make five out of one. ‘Edit’ is my favorite word. While I love many layers, I also love when one can wear it as separates. Fashion is one of the few applied arts with a commercial aspect to it. I believe it’s a balance between the two worlds that can make it all come together. It’s this balance that I strive to achieve. What I present at my show, my buyers and stores should want to buy.

Designer Urvashi Kaur believes, fashion is nothing but a mirror to the society, reflecting its nuances in the most honest way

Urvashi Kaur (centre) with her gang

Fashion designer Urvashi Kaur is known for her sharp interest in various types of fabrics and colours. She yearns to harvest fresh ideas pertaining to the present socio, economic and cultural status of the contemporary society through her designs. She thrives on the zest to constantly experiment with different facets of fashion by bending genres; and the final outcomes are always enthralling. Motivated to revitalize the country’s effervescent textiles, Kaur blends the spheres of ethnic with the modern, which leads her to earn critical applause and a venerated league of clientele for her designs. She is also known for developing relationships with many NGO’s by generating and offering employment opportunities to women and endorsing the improvement of handloom fabrics.

What inspires your designs?

My last collection, titled ‘Semah’ has been inspired by the three unified states of human nature — the mind (as knowledge and thought), the heart (through the expression of feelings, poetry and music) and the body (by activating life). It is Sufi in its deepest of essence.

What does your creation reflect?

My creations in this collection reflect the Sufi traditions across the globe through its art and culture.

What new techniques and materials are you using?

The techniques in this collection involve engineered placements of twisted tie/dye that evoke Bandhej. Mosaic styled geometric patterns derived by hand block prints paired with pleating techniques also surfaced in my work. I have also used shell buttons and wooden beads on the versatile separates with touches of volume and movement in drapes that set a dramatic rhythm.

What does fashion mean to you?

Fashion to me means evoking a sense of simplicity and still being stylishly smart that catches the eye without trying too hard. My collections could be worn by anybody as it has fluidity, movement and ease in it.

How has the Indian fashion industry shaped your outlook towards fashion?

More than the fashion industry, it is the indigenous handlooms, weaves and textiles of India that have inspired me, along with numerous techniques that find expression in our traditional costumes such as hand tucking, rouching, tie and dye, block printing etc. The silhouettes in my collection are also inspired from Indian traditional silhouettes but have been modified for a more universal market.

What’s in the pipeline for your fans?

Many prominent online collaborations such as ‘Pernia’s pop up’ and tie ups with new stores in India and abroad such as ‘anthropology’ are in the pipeline for my fans .The brand is increasing its presence pan-India as well as in the international daises like in Japan and the US. We are also increasing our presence in the Middle East.

Who is your favourite model?

It is very difficult to name one favorite model. However I would like to name a few like, Preeti Dhata, Laxmi Rana and Sonalika Sahay.

Any fashion brands that you really adore?

The international brands I adore are Mary Katrantzou, Serbian label Roksanda Ilincic and Peter Pilotto. I admire the French label Celine (Céline Vipiana) and Stella McCartney too. Greco-Austrian Marios Schwab, Vivienne Westwood, Roland Mouret and Alexander McQueen are my favourites too. In India I am a fan of Rajesh Pratap, Payal Pratap, Abraham and Thakore, Pankaj and Nidhi, Pero, AM:PM, Cell Design and Gaurav Jai Gupta to name a few.

Tell us about your personal style.

Eclectic is the word that describes my personal style most aptly.

What fashion trends do you foresee for the upcoming months?

For the upcoming months the fashion trends I foresee are prints, pleats, sheer, checks and stripes, whites and minimalism.

Glam icon, Shibani Dandekar has been the talk of the town for her gorgeous sense of style and grace

Shibani Dandekar

What is your biggest fashion asset?

I’d have to say my huge assortment of accessories. I have a huge fetish for collecting accessories; wherever I travel, be it Australia, London, New York and so on, I make sure I pick up funky, vintage stuff.

What according to you are the five wardrobe essentials for women?

Honestly, there is no specific answer to this question; however, I feel, wardrobe essential is an individualistic approach – it defines one’s personality and style quotient. For me, my wardrobe should always house the classic black and gold combination, lot of accessories, prints, and boots and off late I am very much into carrying smaller hand bags. Also, you will always find chic vintage pieces in my wardrobe, which I continuously keep collecting. Wardrobe essentials keep changing with varying trends.

What kinds of makeup do you usually like to wear?

I usually like to use a very light base followed by bronzer, which brings out a tanned look. I really don’t like to look too fair and pale because Indian skin is usually on the duskier side and I love flaunting it. Mascara is a must for me and finally bold lip colours finish my look. I have a huge collection of bold-coloured lipsticks, from different hues of reds and oranges to fuchsia and pinks…

Tell us about your favourite Indian and International designers…

On the international front, I love Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney. Amongst Indian designers, I admire works of Sailex, Payal Singhal, Masaba Gupta, Rina Dhaka, Rocky S and Namrata Joshipura.

What is your most expensive buy?

I collect sunglasses and I think I own almost every existing brand. From Tom Ford to Gucci, Prada, Victoria Beckham – I have it all and collectively I spend the most for my shades.

What are your favourite shoe and bag brands?

I don’t necessarily work by brands; I mostly pick up stuff that looks good. However I am a big fan of Christian Louboutin and Jimmy Choo when it comes to shoes. As far as bags are concerned, my current favourite is a black leather bag from Chloe.

What is that one thing that completes your look every day?

I know it sounds clichéd but I have to say its personality that makes or breaks a look. You can go all edgy or classy, elegant or perhaps casual but unless you own that look you can’t pull it off. I dress according to my mood. On a lazy day you will find me in rip tees and baggy jeans; on days when I feel classy, you will find me in black and gold.

What do you do on a bad hair day?

I have figured out this new technique that always works wonders. A high, chic bun with one section of the hair braided around it is the best way to camouflage a bad hair day. Otherwise just put on a hat (smiles).

Who is your favourite fashion icon?

I love Sienna Miller because she dresses for nobody but herself. I find her extremely classy, trendy and fashionable. She doesn’t blindly succumb to trends and she looks effortlessly stylish.

Who is the most fashionable person in your family?

All three sisters are fashionable (laughs). Apeksha is a little bit casual; she likes quirky and grunge. On the other hand, Anusha is very boho chic all the time.

Who are the best dressed actors in Bollywood according to you?

When it comes to fashion scene in Bollywood, it has a long way to go. People here are too boxed into one-dimensional dressing and looks. Fashion has just started to get serious here. However, I like Sonam Kapoor and Rahul Khanna’s dressing sense. They do it fabulously!

Any fashion confessions?

Everything was trial and error. I have no regrets because you do what you feel at that moment. Fashion is a medium of self expression for me and it will always be an individual choice.

Manish Malhotra’s designs and aesthetic values have put him on a pedestal higher than ever. Let’s take a sneak-peak into his world of fashion and luxury

Manish Malhotra with Kajol and Karishma Kapoor

From designing for the divas of Bollywood, to decking up real life brides, designer Manish Malhotra has carved out a niche for himself in the topography of fashion and luxury industry in India and abroad. He speaks about his core concepts of building up a luxury brand and how to sustain in a cut-throat competitive world.

What’s the most fashionable Bollywood film till date?

I feel Dil Chahta Hai, Student of the Year and Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani in the last two decades and Pakeezah from the 1970s are some of the most fashionable films produced by the Indian film fraternity.

When did you realise that being a designer is your true calling?

I always knew I wanted to be an artist. The thought of designing came in eventually though.

Tell us about your first break in Bollywood…

My first break in Bollywood happened in 1986 with the movie Swarg.

Esha Gupta in Manish’s outfit

Brides or Bollywood – what gives you more creative satisfaction?

They both have equal importance in my life. I am a costume designer and a fashion couturier. I started my career with styling. The movies that I style for are always very character driven, whereas for bridal-wear, I keep the needs of the consumers in mind. I visualize the woman who will be wearing my outfit while designing my bridal pieces, but in movies it is more character-centric styling, so I have to think of the character and the actor playing that particular role. However, in both the areas I have to be creative. Yes, they are all inter-connected and I always follow my creative instinct, whether it is for styling or designing, everything else falls in place gradually.

You introduced the concept of showstoppers here – what are your thoughts on it? Who’s your favourite showstopper?

For me, it all started with my first collection where my dear friend, Urmila Matondkar was my muse for that show. I started the concept of showstopper very unintentionally in order to bring some element of newness and today it has become a trend, followed by one and all. I think showstoppers in my shows, rather than taking away all the limelight, always add a little more character to my designs.

Where do you think the Indian fashion industry is headed?

The Indian fashion industry today is headed to a great scenario of globalization with Indian styles becoming the new International ramp looks. For example, the admiration for this classic bandhgala is evident worldwide. The bandhgala is one of those few Indian silhouettes that have found international acclaim. Giorgio Armani has been making them for some time now, Canali has come up with the ‘Nawab Jacket’, and the modernised versions by Tom Ford and Paul Smith are helping the brands establish themselves in India.

Parineeti Chopra in Manish’s outfit

What has been the biggest change in the Indian Fashion Industry?

The fashion industry in India has evolved beautifully, particularly in the last 20 years. Boundaries of the industry started to expand, like the West learning that India is glamorous, and that the sari is the most sensuous garment in the whole wide world. Men have now embraced pink overcoming the stereotypical thinking; an anarkali is as stylish as an evening gown. We see a lot of celebrities embracing our Indian culture like the bandhgala Jacket and the sari at various international events. Many such examples tell us the story of an evolving fashion industry.

What advice do you have for designers breaking into the industry?

Just do what you love, be passionate about your work, it will take you places.

Sonam Kapoor has been charming hearts of millions across the world with her fantastic sense of fashion and style. She calls herself a ‘dramatic dresser’ but it is blanketed elegantly in cloaks of sophistication

Sonam Kapoor

In the kingdom of showbiz, actor Sonam Kapoor has been crowned as the queen of fashion. It’s been a phoenix-like rise for her in the Indian film industry–starting from her first appearance in Sanjay Leela Bansali’s Saawariya to films like Aisha, Raanjhanaa, Bhaag Milkha Bhaag and more. Her sense of style is eccentric, rather she personifies the quintessence of experimental fashion. “My sortie into the industry of fashion and glamour has been quite an amazing one. I worked with many designers but so far I have loved most working with my very dear friend Pernia Qureshi. I was introduced to her by my sister and ever since then it’s been a fashion galore for me. Our aesthetic values and understanding of fashion is absolutely in sync; I trust her sense of styling with all my heart,” avers Kapoor.

The diva believes in dressing for nobody but herself. “In the end, it is not for the sake of being ultra-glamourous but being comfy,” she says with a sparkling smile. This pretty lady is a regular at Cannes and she sets the paparazzi on a roll with her larger-than-life presence. She overwhelms the international media with custom made Dolce and Gabanna gowns; brands like Armani, Prada, Ferragamo, Cavalli and Burberry have become the fashion of the hour with the sultry goddess making them a regular deal.

Fashion quotient: Being the most adoring connoisseur of fashion and beautiful things in life, Kapoor is a dramatic dresser. “I admire beautiful things and beautiful people. It is such a visual delight to see well-dressed people. Fashion and style is something that I love to cultivate; I read lot of books and magazines; I watch many movies and try to be part of fashion shows to keep myself hooked on to the latest happenings in the world of fashion. Over the years, my sense of styling or shopping for that matter has changed in a much refined way; the more the exposure, the better is the consequence. But what I really believe is that looking beautiful is profoundly related to being fit,” she ushers.

Fashionista’s muse: “I am pretty gusty when it comes to following trends. I rather set trends and not fit myself into something just because it’s in vogue,” informs Kapoor. Her fashion sensibilities are stimulated by the archetypes of fashion, like, Audrey Hepburn, Alexandra McQueen, Katharine Hepburn and Coco Chanel. “And in India, I love the way Meena Kumari, Madhubala and Sharmila Tagore have expressed themselves in terms of fashion. In contemporary times, I love the way Kalki Koechilin dresses up; she is bold and at the same time she dresses for herself,” she adds.

The shopaholic: Kapoor loves shopping! And her favourite designers are, Anamika Khanna, Anuradha Vakil, Rohit Bal, Chanel, Alexandra McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano. Not only clothes, the sexy siren has a major fetish for accessories too. “I adore accessories, be it jewellery, shoes, watches, bags, anything at all!” She shops from across the world–London, Paris, New York and more. “But my favourite shopping destination is Dilli. You get the best stuff here,” she affirms. When in Mumbai, she loves digging vintage from Bungalow 8. However, Kapoor also indulges in the pleasures of street shopping, especially when in Delhi. “I love buying jewellery and sandals from Delhi,” she states.

Her closet: The lady says, “My wardrobe is my temple.” She has a walk-in closet, wherein she keeps her most expensive buys to the simplest of stuff with much love. “I cherish my clothes and accessories from the bottom of my heart,” she gushes. However, being the perfectionist that she is, when it comes to proper dressing and maintenance of her ensembles, Kapoor re-shuffles her wardrobe twice a year. “My wardrobe is my haven. But, I don’t like to stash everything together; so I neatly pack stuff and display it in such a way that I can peek at them,” she signs off.

From upholding philosophies of art from rural India to reproducing its artistic taste on her clothes, fashion designer Aneeth Arora is a textile revivalist

Aneeth Arora

Her approach towards fashion is instinctive and she would rather call herself an artist than a fashion designer. One of the most talented, young designers on the block, Delhi-based, Aneeth Arora has come a long way in the fashion industry. From witnessing dreary response from the spectators at her very first show in 2007 to opening up her new collection to a choc-a-block hall filled with fashion enthusiasts in 2014, cheering and celebrating her magnificent work, Arora dares to bend genres and yet carve out a niche in the realm of fashion.

Her silhouettes are classy and understated; her relaxed and untailored approach to layering, capacious yet not overwhelming, casts a vintage look to her garments. Also, her colour palette that mostly comprises of muted hues like pale mustard, white, black, dark blue and beige makes her clothes look all the more sophisticated with powerful, under lying drifts of the rural spirit.

Fashion philosophy: when it comes to fashion, my ideologies are based on the belief that I should be able to emulate whatever I observe around me, which strikes a cord with my fashion sensibilities in a wearable form to people. I travel a lot of rural India and I am a very observant traveler. I try to absorb as much of local aesthetics as I can because I feel rural India is the real trend-setter and its gorgeous whimsicality has been my muse since time immemorial.

Fall/Winter ’14

Changing consumer tastes: I am a firm believer of the fact that every single person has their very own fashion appreciation pattern. So, my only conscious attempt in the whole dynamics of ‘changing consumer taste’ is to provide clothes to people that will clout them to re-think their perceptiveness. I am not here to alter mindsets; I am just her to make an impact.

Latest on the rack: My Fall/Winter collection truly lived up to the very essence of the season—for the very first time, every single garment is made of wool. We sourced wool from various corners of India, be it Kashmir or Kulu and the textile was hand-woven. Also, we tied up with an Italian company to produce hand-made wool jersey for us. The modus operandi of this collection was to keep the tradition of hand-made craftsmanship alive by juxtaposing artisans and artistry from different corners of the world.

Business of fashion: I feel over the period of five years, people have become overtly sensitive towards age-old traditions and crafts of our country; not only in India, but on a global forum too, traditional techniques and art forms are being much appreciated. Since our foray is hand-crafted textiles, this has helped in putting us on a more comprehensive pedestal. This is the perfect time for brands like ours to grow and evolve.

Wearability vs. trends: Péro is all about wearable clothing; so we never really had to struggle to balance trends. We aim at culling out inspirational tales from rural India and portray them in our outfits; so the trends that come out, consequentially are always balanced.

Future plans: I take one day at a time and try to make the most of it. If, you ask me about the next collection, I would say, it’s an ongoing process and we are always working on the ‘next’ collection.

Fall/Winter ’14

The brand essence: Péro means ‘to wear’ in Marwari. The brand symbolises and celebrates the beauty of traditional, hand-made Indian craft. Every piece that we make is touched by many artisans before they hit the racks. So, each garment is enthused with unique adroitness and taste. The main aspiration is to keep the roots alive.

The Péro woman: A woman who is very sensitive towards what she wears will wear my clothes. She would choose comfort over style and would want to feel the beauty of the garment; she would not pick up a garment just on face-value, but would pick up attires to know the hidden tales behind its birth. She would let the pieces interact with her. She would treat the whole experience in a poetic way.

Source of inspiration: I pick up strands of creativity from everything that I see; it could be good music or great food too. Small things on a rugged road to the torn weave on a road-side beggar—everything around me fills me up with vision and spark.

Favourite designers: I had interned with Abraham and Thakore and I love their take on textiles; the simplicity in their work, which results in procuring amazingly chic outfits, leaves me waiting for their next collection, always! I also look up to Sabyasachi Mukherji; the way he has done is branding is remarkable. Also, his ways of combining techniques is quite noteworthy too. I also admire Rajesh Pratap Singh.

Queen of Quirk, Masaba Gupta is making headlines with her edgy prints, innovative choice of colours and brilliant designs

Alia Bhat in Masaba’s outfit

Designer Masaba Gupta has been the talk-of-the-town for a while now for her out-of-the-box clothes, quirky prints and an explosion of colours that often surface in her outfits.

Of inspirations: This time around my inspiration rooted from the classic Fitzgerald girl, meeting her sporty and edgy side.

Tale of fabrics: In my latest collection, I used lots of tissues, ombre, organza, lycra, jersey silk and muslin. We had unconventional cuts mixed with really basic silhouettes like the braided sari with a palazzo pant instead of a petticoat; lots of sheer cover-ups and tiny crop tops with pencil skirts were well applauded too. The basic modus operandi was all about being sensual with an edge.

Design mantra: My design philosophy is all about being fearless and unapologetic about who you are and what your aesthetic values are.

Techniques and materials: Off late we have been doing a lot of experiments with the sari; we had the lycra jumpsuit sari, wherein we put the pleats at the back instead of ahead. We also designed embellished organza sweatshirts and teamed up ribbed necklines on very delicate fabrics. Lastly, we also twisted the traditional Benarasi embroidery in silver and gold.

Defining fashion: Fashion for me is whatever that is convenient, whatever that gives you joy; it should uplift you and not be taken too seriously! Fashion should be fun.

Eternal muse: My mother, Neena Gupta has been my muse and source of inspiration since forever.

Future of couture:  It is going places for sure. People are venturing into a different segment of haute couture besides just bridal. I know it for sure, couture in India is only going to get higher.

Future plans: Well, a lot of brand collaborations and innovative ideas are in the pipeline.

Favourite model: Candice pinto is my most favourite model. She is supremely talented.

Brand loving: There are so many; but if I have to name a few, it would be Prada, Burberry, Michael Kors, Diane Von Furstenberg, Sabyasachi and Anamika Khanna.

Fashion soothsayer:  Sheer monochrome and pops of neon will definitely lead the fashion sphere. Also sports are in so, ditch those heels and go crazy with the good old keds.

Personal style:  Minimalist is my mantra and I am happiest in black and white.

Reminiscence:  My first design was a patchwork sari. I made it in college and the teachers hated it because they didn’t understand why I had to use colour with black and white, which has now become my USP (smiles).

Best style advice: Just be yourself and no clothes can do to you what confidence does.

Words of wisdom: Just be original. Be a devotee of fashion but always have another love; this industry takes from you as much as it gives you. So embrace life as it comes.

Fashion & society: I feel fashion and society cannot function without each other’s presence.