Amrit Kaur’s Fascination with Retro

Amrit Kaur’s Collection

Speaking of retro trends of the season…

This season is all about return of the retro in modern style. Swooping bellbottoms, tightly-fit tops, and psychedelic prints—everywhere we look, the 1970s style is back in heavy rotation with touches of contemporary style. For instance, flared pants are given a modern look by teaming it up with crisp white shirts or a crop tops; also, take note of oversized sunglasses, polka-dotted hair accessories, bright floral prints and more.

Tale of fabrics, color palette, prints and silhouettes…

For this summer, I have played with cotton silk, chiffon, chanderi and blend of cotton and raw silk. The fabrics portray a palette of bright colours and prints. With vibrant pop colours such as yellow, orange, green, purple, blue and red taking the center stage, I have played very strategically with bold prints and floral prints to make my garments look more fun and lively. I used floral-roses to cast hints of feminineness, and tropical prints, wild flowers along with long leafs with subtle colors and geometric prints to recall disco elements in crop tops, blouses, sheer capes, mid-cuff skirts, pencil-cut skirts, short dress and pantsuits for woman.

Amrit Kaur’s Collection

What went behind making of your latest collection?

Love of retro and love of summer went behind conceptualizing this collection. Movies like American hustle and TV shows like the 70’s show got me really inspired.

Tell us about your fascination with the good-old 70s fashion…

70’s fashion is a statement to be bold, fun and joy. Pop colors, bold prints, high-waisted flared trousers, symmetry and hints of disco gold on jumpsuits, capes, and dresses often bring out the hippie in you. I am in love with this unpretentious and fearless style statement. Rugged hairdos, statement headgears, Bohemian scarfs, oversized hats and big sunnies always arrest my attention.

Amrit Kaur’s Collection

The muse…

The whole look and energy of 70’s era inspired me; the era reminds me of times that were hassle-free, fun, optimistic and unpretentious in terms of fashion. The pop culture, disco trends and hippies really stood out amidst two oil crisis movements, the end of the Vietnam War and suffering economy. The 70’s were a time of beauty and freedom, when femininity was pushed forward. Bold prints and vibrant colors has always been my favorite but 70’s also give us bold flashy gold look—think of big loops, jewelry and belts.

Future plans?

Right now I am working on my new collection for autumn/winter 2015-16 in which I am taking further my retro theme in winter style making more of coats, jackets and sheer dresses. Rest all is a surprise (she smiles).

Royal & rooted – by Aditi Maheshwari

Rohit Bal

Rohit Bal, one of the most sought after fashion designers, popularly known as the ‘master of fabric and fantasy’, gets candid and talks about the current fashion industry and his journey as a designer

What is your design philosophy?

For me, the most important word is elegance. I also give importance to certain styles that are understated, craft based and extremely Indian. Nothing that I do has any western influences. Everything I do has a very strong soul of India; so my design philosophy says that I am an Indian and I like making Indian designs; also, all my designs are hand crafted and at the end of the day, the soul of India should be represented in my collections.

What new techniques and materials are you using?

We are using the opposite of new techniques. We are focusing on age old techniques—those that are long forgotten. We are reviving techniques that used to be an important part of Indian subcontinent. So instead of doing something new, I am using techniques that were used many hundreds of years ago. I am trying to bring back what is lost to India.

Rohit Bal’s bridal collection for Wills India Fashion Week SS’15

What does fashion mean to you?

Fashion for me is a very integral part of lifestyle. Fashion doesn’t mean wearing fancy clothes. It’s about the way you live, your lifestyle, your home, the food you eat, the car you drive, the life you lead; it’s really about your entire life. Fashion is in fact, a necessary evil.

During your formative years, who has been your muse?

When I started out as a fashion designer, I was influenced greatly by a very dear friend, Rohit Khosla. He was my inspiration and my muse.

Most fashion designers are now diversifying into other areas besides fashion. What’s your take on this and how important is it to diversify for creative expression as well as to scale up the business?

I might have been amongst the first ones to have done that. The reason why you do this is because you want your creativity to be experimented and expressed in other mediums rather than what you normally do with fashion. A creative person absolutely must do as many creative things as possible; whether it is designing homes, cars, product designs, etc. A designer should give his creativity another platform. It is a natural progression and extremely important.

Rohit Bal’s bridal collection for Wills India Fashion Week SS’15

What is the future of couture in India?

I think the future of fashion in India is couture and nothing else. In India there are enough international brands. But what we designers do is very up market and occasion wear; whether it is weddings or parties. So, I think couture has a great potential in India.

What was your first design? Do you have any interesting anecdotes in the making of your first piece?

The first design I ever did was for men. The first person who wore those was my friend, Rohit Khosla. The first thing I ever made was a gold tissue bandhgala for men. At that time, such designs were very contemporary and avant-garde.

Way back when you were a student, what inspired you? How did you decide upon this career?

Some very fashionable people used to come visit my college when I was a student. I used to observe some amazing style icons, see their beautiful clothes and get inspired by the likes of them.

Rohit Bal at the grand finale show for Wills India Fashion Week SS’15

How does the business of fashion look like today?

Encouraging. The industry is also getting a little more organised. Earlier this entire industry was very haphazard and not very focused. But now, fashion has become a very important industry.

P.S- Aditi Maheshwari, the author of this story is an avid lifestyle writer who runs a popular decor blog www.pobox9.in

How to Write a Fairy Tale by Anju Modi

Anju Modi

When you tread in reality everyday of your life; when the world is dull and filled with routine; when your spirit needs reviving and your soul is sick and screaming –let’s escape together to a world where anything is possible, let’s escape together and enter our Fairytale.

Anju Modi

As we unravel our imagination, the Cosmo goes wild, the woods turn dark, the wolves get greedy, and the moon is blue and as snow consumes everything, a woman in red stands tall. Her head held high against the elements, she is everything that is good.  She is love, she is hope, and she is beauty: the beauty of creation that makes every moment in our lives meaningful.

Anju Modi

It is from this meaning that Anju Modi presented her Autumn/Winter 2015 collection this year. Every fabric draped, every line sketched, and every muse revered is an ode to this fairytale that takes us away from the mundane and breathes life back in our souls.

The Summer Bride By Anita Dongre

The Summer Bride By Anita Dongre

As we stride into a resplendent summer, Anita Dongre brings to life yet another fairy-tale through her latest collection, ‘The Summer Bride’. The collection reminisces the quintessential moment of the big day in the life of the modern Anita Dongre bride, beautifully portrayed by her muse and the enthralling ‘Jaipur Bride’ – Nayantara.

The Summer Bride By Anita Dongre

The Rajasthan-inspired collection takes us through a series of visual affairs that emblazon Nayantara’s journey of the bride she aspires to be. It takes us down the sartorial memory lane to the instant that led Nayantara to realize that she had found her frameable moment of radiant love, the portrait of her happily ever after. It wasn’t just a mere tryst of destiny, but a striking black and white portrait of her strong grandmother that stayed with Nayantara for decades. A vision she treasured through her growing up years.

The Summer Bride By Anita Dongre

Renowned for her splendid couture designs teeming with romantic details, each Anita Dongre ensemble is an ode to femininity, a celebration of dreams. Dreams in hues of summer comprising of nude, blush and dusky shades that work up to navy blues and crimson for a finale of more dainty ruffles, crystals and embroidered gowns. Their sparkle is magical, the colours melt together, and the handcrafted threads of love are superimposed in an incredible impression of lightness. The collection explores elements of its symbolic significance and design creation, as the final flourish of bridal resplendence and delicate elegance.

Masaba Gupta created fireworks on the runway

Masaba for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

With ‘pataka’ being her muse, queen of quirk, designer Masaba Gupta created rage at Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015. The collection brought forth the zest and zeal of a ‘pataka’ coupled with a grand set up.

Masaba for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Models flaunted delicate floral prints and donned garlands made of fire crackers on their tresses. The outfits were mostly linear silhouetted; straight cut dresses flaunted earthy motifs of zodiac signs and embellishments like, splinters of diamonds.

Masaba for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Masaba worked with colours like, white, black and gold for her Spring/Summer collection; and, silhouettes ranged from saris to suits, and short dresses to long gowns with high slits.

‘Kalahari’ by Nachiket Barve—Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

Nachiket Barve for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

‘Kalahari’ by Nachiket Barve is inspired by the austere, enormous, uninviting yet absolutely beautiful Kalahari and Namib deserts of Africa. His Spring/Summer 2015 collection at Wills India Fashion Week showcased checked fabrics of the Maasai tribe and beaded corsets of Dinka men in colour palettes replicating hues of the sand, sky and desert sun.

Nachiket Barve for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

The line of clothes scrounged streaks of influences from Africa but not in a ‘typical’ tribal manner. In fact, the silver jewellery of the Tuareg people has been reinterpreted in frail beading; the beaded corsets of the Dinka men have been deciphered to wooden beaded embroidery on dresses and the neck pieces and checked fabrics of the Maasai also instilled stark influences on part of the collection.

Nachiket Barve for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

The fabrics incorporated were shiny satin, jute, heavy silk crêpe, kota, tulle, chiffon, georgette, organza, chanderi, washed dupion, raw silk and tussar silk. Neutral backdrop often gave way to tonal embroidery and unusual motif placements took charge of the runway.

Nachiket Barve for Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015

The silhouettes presented were front slit skirts, slashing, mid-calf length, palazzos, zippers, cutouts, safari shirts, transparency and draping.

Anita Dongre for Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2014

Anita Dongre with Niladri Kumar

Inspired by the crafts and textiles of India, Anita Dongre’s ‘India Modern’ bridal collection presented by Taj Mahal Tea was a stunning offering at the fashion week.

Anita Dongre

Once again dedicating the collection to her mythical muse ‘Nayantara’ who is the ideal Jaipur bride, Anita drew ideas from the grand architecture of the Mughal era for her designs but aimed them at the 21st century bride.

Anita Dongre

To the pulsating beat of ace musician Niladri Kumar and his band, the ‘India Modern’ wedding collection started on a festive note with foot tapping melodies. A regal picture was painted by Anita as flowing bridal lehengas were given a modern twist. Subtle detailing and layering were merged cleverly with complex embellishments like gotta patti, dori and hand embroidery.

Anita Dongre

The rich fabrics brought to life the grand creations like lehengas, cropped tops, structured jackets with ornate pants and stylish couture gowns. The colour card was perfect for bridal wear as jewel tones of ruby red, peacock blue and raani pink gave the creations an opulent touch, while soft naturals like cream and flesh offered delicate options.

Anita Dongre

The first segment featuring jumpsuits, kurtas and tunics in black and white with gold work was a serene start to the show. Jumpsuits had gold edging, white or black shirt kurtas were teamed with embroidered pants. Cropped jacket had wrapped long tulip skirt, while a trio of gold, white and black embroidered kurtas made a dramatic entry.

Anita Dongre

Crinkle skirts or kurtas were striking on the ramp with just the right touch of embellishments. Long elegant front slit covers skimmed the floor with ornate trousers as the perfect complement. Lehengas were paneled and shown with simple gold cholis. Bandhani appeared for dupattas and long skirts. A sprinkling of gowns appeared in rust, beige and white with gorgeous gold work. Asymmetry appeared often for the kurtas that had cropped fronts that moved into elegant long backs.

Anita Dongre

Anita ended the show with a quartet of orange, blue, red and beige paneled lehengas with very ornate hemlines, cholis and dupattas. A trio of ecru jackets was teamed with raani pink, red and fuchsia glittering long skirts. Men’s wear had Anita’s controlled styling as a black sherwani or white one was textured cleverly.

Kiran Uttam Ghosh’s designs are beyond pragmatic prêt. With an unconventional urge to create a sense of balance between traditional and modernist quintessence, she constantly thrives to take perfection to newer bounds

Autumn/Winter ’14

Kolkata-based designer, Kiran Uttam Ghosh confronts the very notion of categorization. Being present in eight countries, Ghosh’s designs are understated with silhouettes and distinctive textures that snub to be allied by any particular school of fashion philosophy. Her work emphasises on the metaphysics of detailing, which was imparted to her by her mentor, Jasper Conran. Today, her couture line epitomizes an enduring classic appeal, wherein she casts newer dimensions to all her clothes.

Tell us about your Autumn/Winter’14 collection…

My Autumn/Winter collection is inspired by Paisleys—Paisleys as embroidered cut-work necks, textures, prints and neck pieces. One can see layered silhouettes that are long and lean, often with shorter fronts and long backs; also, metallic and bling neck pieces have made a mark. The key pieces to look out for are sheer pants with embroidered hem details and cut work armholes. This collection is about separates—to connect with varied generations and to wear on different occasions. For example, a gold pleated wrap jacket can be worn over a sari or over shorts, paired with a tee or with a choli.

Autumn/Winter ’14

What colours and prints will be in vogue this season?

Metallics, like, gold, bronze and silver will work well adding drama and support to colours like rich red, ivory, deep purple, teal and emerald. As far as prints are concerned, enlarged paisley prints will rule the season.

What textiles and silhouettes will be creating buzz in the fashion circuit?

Silhouettes that are shorter on the front with longer backs will be trending. Furthermore, vertical paneled pieces with sheer and opaque offsetting each other will be in vogue. As for textiles, I feel pressed pleats in gold, bronze and silver will be hot favourite. Pleats in short colours of teal, deep purple and gold will have a fashion moment too!

What according to you are the topmost fashion trends this year?

I’m not a trends person at all. I follow what I feel like wearing. I like my clothes to be passed on as heirloom pieces. Nothing makes me happier than a mother telling me how her daughter wore her clothes on her wedding day. Having said that, I think sheer pyjamas with bright traditional embroidered hemlines are a great way to present traditional workmanship with a global silhouette. These can easily be worn with a tee, a shirt or a gherdaar—from evening wear to a mehendi ceremony or a wedding reception.

Autumn/Winter ’14

What are your views on deconstructive silhouettes and unisexual fashion?

Androgyny is my forte. There is nothing like a man’s white shirt on a woman’s petite figure. I love borrowing from a man’s wardrobe. At the same time I love pastels, saris, kurtas and sheers. Being a woman in fashion today is amazing. We can have the best of both worlds.

What is your fashion mantra?

Keeping it simple is my mantra. I often see an ensemble and feel I can make five out of one. ‘Edit’ is my favorite word. While I love many layers, I also love when one can wear it as separates. Fashion is one of the few applied arts with a commercial aspect to it. I believe it’s a balance between the two worlds that can make it all come together. It’s this balance that I strive to achieve. What I present at my show, my buyers and stores should want to buy.

Designer Urvashi Kaur believes, fashion is nothing but a mirror to the society, reflecting its nuances in the most honest way

Urvashi Kaur (centre) with her gang

Fashion designer Urvashi Kaur is known for her sharp interest in various types of fabrics and colours. She yearns to harvest fresh ideas pertaining to the present socio, economic and cultural status of the contemporary society through her designs. She thrives on the zest to constantly experiment with different facets of fashion by bending genres; and the final outcomes are always enthralling. Motivated to revitalize the country’s effervescent textiles, Kaur blends the spheres of ethnic with the modern, which leads her to earn critical applause and a venerated league of clientele for her designs. She is also known for developing relationships with many NGO’s by generating and offering employment opportunities to women and endorsing the improvement of handloom fabrics.

What inspires your designs?

My last collection, titled ‘Semah’ has been inspired by the three unified states of human nature — the mind (as knowledge and thought), the heart (through the expression of feelings, poetry and music) and the body (by activating life). It is Sufi in its deepest of essence.

What does your creation reflect?

My creations in this collection reflect the Sufi traditions across the globe through its art and culture.

What new techniques and materials are you using?

The techniques in this collection involve engineered placements of twisted tie/dye that evoke Bandhej. Mosaic styled geometric patterns derived by hand block prints paired with pleating techniques also surfaced in my work. I have also used shell buttons and wooden beads on the versatile separates with touches of volume and movement in drapes that set a dramatic rhythm.

What does fashion mean to you?

Fashion to me means evoking a sense of simplicity and still being stylishly smart that catches the eye without trying too hard. My collections could be worn by anybody as it has fluidity, movement and ease in it.

How has the Indian fashion industry shaped your outlook towards fashion?

More than the fashion industry, it is the indigenous handlooms, weaves and textiles of India that have inspired me, along with numerous techniques that find expression in our traditional costumes such as hand tucking, rouching, tie and dye, block printing etc. The silhouettes in my collection are also inspired from Indian traditional silhouettes but have been modified for a more universal market.

What’s in the pipeline for your fans?

Many prominent online collaborations such as ‘Pernia’s pop up’ and tie ups with new stores in India and abroad such as ‘anthropology’ are in the pipeline for my fans .The brand is increasing its presence pan-India as well as in the international daises like in Japan and the US. We are also increasing our presence in the Middle East.

Who is your favourite model?

It is very difficult to name one favorite model. However I would like to name a few like, Preeti Dhata, Laxmi Rana and Sonalika Sahay.

Any fashion brands that you really adore?

The international brands I adore are Mary Katrantzou, Serbian label Roksanda Ilincic and Peter Pilotto. I admire the French label Celine (Céline Vipiana) and Stella McCartney too. Greco-Austrian Marios Schwab, Vivienne Westwood, Roland Mouret and Alexander McQueen are my favourites too. In India I am a fan of Rajesh Pratap, Payal Pratap, Abraham and Thakore, Pankaj and Nidhi, Pero, AM:PM, Cell Design and Gaurav Jai Gupta to name a few.

Tell us about your personal style.

Eclectic is the word that describes my personal style most aptly.

What fashion trends do you foresee for the upcoming months?

For the upcoming months the fashion trends I foresee are prints, pleats, sheer, checks and stripes, whites and minimalism.

The eccentric designer duo, Dev R Nil are known for their whimsical designs. Their capricious outfits, which are edgy, quirky yet very chic has breathed freshness into the realm of unisexual fashion

Dev r Nil

Known for their intellectually stimulating plots and distinctively unconventional designs, designer duo Dev R Nil’s work has always had abstinence. Their garments cast out freshness and callow whimsy in the rather stiff-lipped styling trade.

Tell us about your latest collection…

‘Love is a war for lives’ is the tagline for our latest collection, which was unveiled at the Will’s Lifestyle Fashion Week (WLFW) 2014. The love and affection in terms of sculptures, art and literature has now got replaced by rape and vandalism—such is the insecure times that we live in. This collection is a voice to the caged love and freedom of expression. We liberate ourselves from the mind and heart and celebrate life as God meant it to be.

What colours and prints will be in vogue this season?

Monochromes, surface embroideries, harsh geometric prints and few deliberately developed ‘unfinished’ prints will be interestingly mixed and layered to tell a story of forbidden love this season. The look that’s severe, cold yet vulnerable with its softness is what we should seek for in the upcoming months. The indifference of the grey and monochromes will be warmly hugged by turquoise blue, cherry red, canary yellow and mint blue.

Autumn/Winter ’14

What textiles, textures and silhouettes will be creating buzz in the fashion circuit?

Interplay of softness of chiffon and georgette juxtaposed with severity of leather and the formality of the special fabric developed with metallic thread embroidery will be in rage. The patterned prints of roses and scattered roses, the geometric monochromatic prints, the female form incorporated and disintegrated ‘love’—all will come together in unison. The point of focus comes alive in the signature ‘Dev r Nil’ prints and the cutworks and appliqué techniques used on leather and other fabrics will create magic. Embroidered jackets, coat dresses, shirt dresses, leather tops and double-breasted long jackets keep the look chic and feminine. A special accessory line of bags, hold-alls, clutches, messenger-boy bags and man bags add to the story of search of freedom from the censorship imposed by the society, peer group, religion and more.

What according to you are the topmost fashion trends this year?

We believe wearing non-labeled clothing is a top trend for the year—clothing that will not scream-out-loud a label, rather will compliment one’s personality. Trends come and go but finding classics, is the toughest.

What are your views on unisexual fashion?

As far as unisexual fashion is concerned, we have been creating clothes for our own personal wear, which ends up being preferred by both the sexes. There was no conscious decision of making them unisexual, but the idea of blurring the gender divide through clothing is very powerful in itself. So we continue designing clothes and prints, which obscures these lines.

Autumn/Winter ’14

What is your take on the business dynamics of Indian fashion?

The Indian fashion industry, with its talent, craft, textile and business sense, is luring the international fashion world with a certain sense of vengeance; there’s no denying that the Indian fashion industry and designers have managed to impact the fashion orbit, all across the world. We have not only impressed the world with power, style and sensibility, but the country has a great understanding of the business dynamics of this colossal international industry. All over the world, Indian ethnic designs and materials are considered as a significant facet for fashion houses and garment manufacturers, so you can clearly judge where we stand.

What is your fashion philosophy?

One thing we definitely know is that misery and sadness doesn’t inspire us. Human spirit, happy memories, travel experiences or even inanimate objects like a broken wall with a banyan tree (incidentally that’s the name and inspiration of our first collection) can spark a whole lot of images in our heads. We are affected by daily lives, the socio-economic climate as well as stories, which transport us to a different world all together.